I figured I really should write this up somewhere so I can just link to it instead of writing down all the steps every single time. So here it is!
I like toe-up on circs so I do the magic cast-on except instead of a slip knot for the very first stitch I just kind of loop the yarn around the needle. The non-slip knot version can be found here. I've ended up thinking of my socks as "14 up to 30" or "16 up to 32" instead of thinking of the total number of stitches in a round. The number I cast-on and the number to which I increase does change depending on the yarn and the intended feet.
After I've increased as far as I want it's stockinette until it's time to start increasing for the heel. I use the heel from the Widdershins pattern (never actually knit those socks, just tried out the heel part and liked it). I have a much easier time preventing weird holes with that heel than I have with other heels I've tried. And I like the way a heel flap heel fits.
The increase rows start 3 inches before the length of the foot, so for me I start increasing once I've hit 5 inches (since my feet are 8 inches long). It's an increase of two stitches every other row for 20 rows. So once I can count 10 increases up one side it's time for the short rows.
I figured out the math of the short rows so I can work it over any number of stitches, like so:
1) k until 16 before end, m1k, k1, w&t
2) p until 16 before end, m1p, p1, w&t
3) k until 4 before the wrapped stitch, m1k, k1, w&t
4) p until 4 before the wrapped stitch, m1p, p1, w&t
5) k until 4 before the wrapped stitch, m1k, k1, w&t
6) p until 4 before the wrapped stitch, m1p, p1, w&t
7) k until 4 before the wrapped stitch, m1k, k1, w&t
8) p until 4 before the wrapped stitch, m1p, p1, w&t
After that it's the same as the pattern on Knitty. One round knitting all those wrapped stitches back in, then decreasing back to the starting number.
Then it's stockinette on the leg for as long as I feel like it. I like the way twisted rib looks so I do 10 rows of 1x1 twisted rib at the top to keep things from curling on me.
And I finish the whole thing off with a double crochet bind-off.
So that's my generic sock pattern!

Instead of two solids I used a solid and a variegated on this one. It did take a while to find a combination that worked well. All the colors in the variegated one had to contrast a decent amount with the solid or else it just got all muddy and seemed pointless to use two colors. I did try two variegated at one point and that just really didn't work.

The Stats...
Needles: 7's (4.5mm)
Yarn: Sugar 'n Cream - Softly Taupe (0.9 oz) and Peaches and Cream - Winterberry (0.7 oz)
Pattern: Three-and-One Pattern (Barbara Walker v. 1 pg. 94) - changed color every two rows, co 43
Sizing: 9.25" by 8.25"
SPI: 4.5
Started: 12-10-2008
Finished: 12-11-2008

This particular stitch makes a really different fabric than most of the other washcloths I've done. It's a much flatter and tighter thing, kind of stiffer. I might do another one with this stitch for myself, I'm curious as to how the different texture affects it's scrubbiness.

The Stats...
Needles: 6's (4mm)
Yarn: Peaches & Creme - 165 Daisy Ombre (1.2 oz)
Pattern: Vogue Stitchionary v.1 #220 linen stitch, co 38, doesn't need selvage stitches
Sizing: 9" by 8.5"
SPI: 4.25
Started: 12-7-2008
Finished: 12-09-2008
"Funnest" is not a word. Please tell your advertising people.
That is all.


The Stats...
Needles: 7's (4.5mm)
Yarn: Sugar 'n Cream - 02235 Country Side Ombre (1.6 oz)
Pattern: "tiny bamboo" stitch (#224 in Vogue Stitchionary v.1), co 44, 1 stitch of garter on either side
Sizing: 9.75" by 9.5"
SPI: 4.5
Started: 12-5-2008
Finished: 12-7-2008

Socks. Yes, I'm very exciting.
I really like the yarn, it has a constant black ply throughout and then colors changing on the other ply. I really like the way that particular combination works. It makes the color changing just a bit more subtle, not that I don't love stripes, just that sometimes a person wants something not quite so bold.

The Stats...
Needles: 0's (2mm)
Yarn: OnLine color #842
Pattern: my generic
Sizing: 14/needle up to 30
SPI: 7
Started: 10-27-2008
Finished: 12-06-2008

Once again, I went down a needle size from my normal for this one. And I'd like to say that I planned out how the seed stitch along the edges would work with the pattern, but that was just a really happy accident. The seed stitch just matched exactly perfectly with the main pattern so the diamonds blend right into the edging. Yay for accidentally picking the right stitch count!

The Stats...
Needles: 6's (4mm)
Yarn: Sugar 'n Cream - Softly Taupe (used 1.6 oz)
Pattern: Embossed Diamonds - pg 27 of Harmony Guide 450 Knitting Stitches, co 39, 4 rows of seed at top and bottom, 3 stitches of seed on either side
Sizing: 10" by 9.75"
SPI: 4
Started: 11-30-2008
Finished: 12-5-2008

Slip stitch patterns just work so very well with alternating colors! It amazes me how different the stitch can look depending on how the colors change (or don't change.)

The Stats...
Needles: 7's (4.5mm)
Yarn: Peaches & Creme - Light Blue (0.9 oz) and Sugar 'n Cream - Softly Taupe (0.8 oz)
Pattern: Three-and-One Pattern (Barbara Walker v. 1 pg. 94) - changed color every two rows, co 43
Sizing: 9.25" by 8.5"
SPI: 4.5
Started: 11-30-2008
Finished: 11-30-2008


The Stats...
Needles: 7's (4.5mm)
Yarn: Lion Cotton - 214 Naturals and Denim (used 1.7 oz.)
Pattern: Three-and-One Pattern (Barbara Walker v. 1 pg. 94), co 43, doesn't need any selvage stitches
Sizing: 9.5" by 9"
SPI: 4.5
Started: 11-29-2008
Finished: 11-30-2008

I just about always use size 7's with this kind of yarn, but the pattern just did not look right. Went down a needle size and the whole thing tightened up and looked a lot better.

The Stats...
Needles: 6's (4mm)
Yarn: Sugar 'n Cream - sage green (used 1.4 oz of 2.6 oz ball)
Pattern: Parallelogram Check (Harmony Guides, 450 Knitting Stitches pg. 25), co 38, 4 rows of seed stitch at top and bottom, 4 stitches of seed on either side
Sizing: 9.75" by 9.25"
SPI: 4
Started: 11-28-2008
Finished: 11-29-2008